Italian Competition Authority Probes Sephora, Benefit, & LVMH Over Marketing of Cosmetics to Minors

Key Takeaways

• Dual Investigations Launched: The Italian Competition Authority has opened two probes into Sephora Italia, Benefit Cosmetics, and LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia over potential unfair commercial practices.
• Focus on Minors’ Skincare Use: The investigations center on concerns that children and adolescents may have been encouraged to use adult cosmetics, contributing to the rise of “cosmeticorexia.”
• Potential Disclosure Failures: Regulators are assessing whether companies failed to clearly communicate that certain products were not intended for, or tested on, minors, including possible misleading presentation of warnings.
• Influencer Marketing Under Scrutiny: The use of young micro-influencers is being examined for potentially encouraging compulsive purchasing behavior among a vulnerable demographic.
• Regulatory Enforcement Activity: On-site inspections were conducted with support from the Guardia di Finanza, signaling a more assertive enforcement posture around consumer protection and youth-targeted marketing.

Deep DIve

Italy’s competition regulator has opened two investigations into major players in the cosmetics sector, examining whether marketing practices may have encouraged children and adolescents to use products designed for adults.

The probe targets Sephora Italia in one case, and Benefit Cosmetics alongside Sephora Italia and LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia in another. At the center of both investigations are concerns over potential unfair commercial practices tied to the growing use of adult skincare products among minors.

Concerns Over “Cosmeticorexia” and Youth Targeting

According to the authority, the investigations focus on whether companies may have contributed to what it describes as “cosmeticorexia,” an emerging trend involving an obsessive approach to skincare among children and adolescents. The regulator flagged concerns that minors, including those under the age of 10 or 12, may have been encouraged to purchase and use products such as face masks, serums, and anti-aging creams.

Authorities are examining whether key information, such as warnings or precautions indicating that certain products are not intended for, or tested on, younger users, was omitted or presented in a misleading way. These concerns extend across both online channels and physical retail environments, including Sephora stores, particularly in relation to the Sephora Collection and Benefit product lines.

The regulator noted that frequent and combined use of multiple cosmetic products by minors, without adequate awareness, could pose potential health risks.

Scrutiny of Influencer-Led Marketing

A significant aspect of the investigation centers on marketing strategies involving very young micro-influencers. The authority indicated that these campaigns may have subtly encouraged compulsive purchasing behaviors among younger audiences, who are considered particularly vulnerable consumers.

The use of peer-like influencers, especially those close in age to the target demographic, is being assessed for its potential to blur the line between advertising and organic content, raising questions about transparency and consumer protection.

On-Site Inspections Conducted

As part of the investigation, officials conducted inspections at the premises of Sephora and LVMH in Italy. The inspections were carried out with the assistance of the Special Antitrust Unit of Italy’s financial police, the Guardia di Finanza.

The investigations remain ongoing, and no conclusions on liability have been announced at this time.

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